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Post by Firefox on Feb 17, 2014 18:33:20 GMT
So I have a house about 120 m2 area which I am refurbishing.
At present it has 8 radiators, upstairs bath, downstairs electric shower, electric hot water cylinder, and one of those old fashioned boilers fed from a tank in the loft.
The present boiler (non functioning since 1998) is mounted on the back wall of the kitchen with an external flue box thing at waist level surrounded by a wire grating.
What is the best boiler/size to get to replace this one? Any recommendations on make/model. Will the flue need to go higher? Do I need a combi boiler? I would like to keep the electric hot water cylinder as a back up. Will I need a new pump to go with the boiler? Do you think the radiators and pipe system will work after 16 years of non use?
I will post some photos of the current system. The only place for the new boiler is where the current one is situated.
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Post by Etienne Le Croq on Feb 17, 2014 18:43:43 GMT
You'd probably be better off with a combi boiler chap! They are really good now and very economical.
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Post by Firefox on Feb 17, 2014 18:51:47 GMT
Funnily enough although I work in the building industry, one thing I have no idea about is boilers and systems! One reason being is I have no need for them. I will put on extra clothes indoors or heat a very small space with an electric heater.
However I want to rent out 3 double bedrooms in the house, and I know many people like 3 showers a day, and walk around in their boxer shorts with the central heating on full blast in every room, so a good boiler will be important.
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Post by n brown on Feb 17, 2014 18:59:00 GMT
combi boilers are balanced flue,so suck in air and blow out fumes from the same pipe.they are als instantaneous water heaters,so many showers are achievable as you don't rely on stored hot water,which is your present system. the central heating side has its own pump built in.so you can use all your existing rads and pipework.no idea how to work out how many BTU you need but any plumbers merchant can tell you.if you know any plumbers,get them to buy the boiler you'll save hundreds on discount.check if Howdens sell them-they're good to haggle with !
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Post by Firefox on Feb 17, 2014 19:05:02 GMT
I guess the BTU would be based on the area of the house? (120m2)
One quirky thing about my house is that the kitchen and converted garage (4th bedroom) do not have radiators. I should probably install them in those bringing rads up to 10.
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Post by runnach on Feb 17, 2014 19:12:19 GMT
So I have a house about 120 m2 area which I am refurbishing. At present it has 8 radiators, upstairs bath, downstairs electric shower, electric hot water cylinder, and one of those old fashioned boilers fed from a tank in the loft. The present boiler (non functioning since 1998) is mounted on the back wall of the kitchen with an external flue box thing at waist level surrounded by a wire grating. What is the best boiler/size to get to replace this one? Any recommendations on make/model. Will the flue need to go higher? Do I need a combi boiler? I would like to keep the electric hot water cylinder as a back up. Will I need a new pump to go with the boiler? Do you think the radiators and pipe system will work after 16 years of non use? I will post some photos of the current system. The only place for the new boiler is where the current one is situated. First of all, I am not a gas engineer, but have a basic knowledge of systems. You mention a date when boiler ceased functioning, you haven't mentioned how old rest of system is. I can tell you how I upgraded my old system around year 2k era. Switching from oil to main gas, pipework was old one pipe system, I ripped the lot out. I have 13 rads, all bar one were replaced, I kept I replaced HWC with a new insulated cylinder, because like you, I like to have a back up for hot water by use of an immersion and, new thermostat was more efficient than one on old cylinder. New pipe work is mid bore spec, new rads are doubles, more modern and efficient, with TRV's fitted to all bar hall rad. Boiler size, more or less same rating as oil boiler, 100,000 BTU's. I moved from open circuit system, to pressurized system. Which got rid of header tank in attic. Reads like you have a floor standing boiler (mesh safety basket outside) if replacing with same, floor standing, some install tweaks maybe required? If you intend to keep HWC, don't buy a combi, defeats the purpose if keeping HWC. Boiler size, looking for rating plate (x amount BTU's) I'd replace pump, zone valves too, loo at it as a complete new system install. As for manufactures, loads out there that are reliable brands. Incidentally, one local plumb merchant offered a system planning service FOC, with drawings in hand, I put out to tender. Having a system plan made life so much easier for costing and, knowing floorboards to lift ect. Ask around, there may be a merchant near you whole will design you a new system? HTH?
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Post by Oldish Hippy on Feb 17, 2014 19:12:50 GMT
I guess the BTU would be based on the area of the house? (120m2) One quirky thing about my house is that the kitchen and converted garage (4th bedroom) do not have radiators. I should probably install them in those bringing rads up to 10. calculators.baxiknowhow.co.uk/boiler-sizing/
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Post by runnach on Feb 17, 2014 19:15:07 GMT
So I have a house about 120 m2 area which I am refurbishing. At present it has 8 radiators, upstairs bath, downstairs electric shower, electric hot water cylinder, and one of those old fashioned boilers fed from a tank in the loft. The present boiler (non functioning since 1998) is mounted on the back wall of the kitchen with an external flue box thing at waist level surrounded by a wire grating. What is the best boiler/size to get to replace this one? Any recommendations on make/model. Will the flue need to go higher? Do I need a combi boiler? I would like to keep the electric hot water cylinder as a back up. Will I need a new pump to go with the boiler? Do you think the radiators and pipe system will work after 16 years of non use? I will post some photos of the current system. The only place for the new boiler is where the current one is situated. First of all, I am not a gas engineer, but have a basic knowledge of systems. You mention a date when boiler ceased functioning, you haven't mentioned how old rest of system is. I can tell you how I upgraded my old system around year 2k era. Switching from oil to main gas, pipework was old one pipe system, I ripped the lot out. I have 13 rads, all bar one were replaced, I replaced HWC with a new insulated cylinder, because like you, I like to have a back up for hot water by use of an immersion and, new thermostat was more efficient than one on old cylinder. New pipe work is mid bore spec, new rads are doubles, more modern and efficient, with TRV's fitted to all bar hall rad. Boiler size, more or less same rating as oil boiler, 100,000 BTU's. I moved from open circuit system, to pressurized system. Which got rid of header tank in attic. Reads like you have a floor standing boiler (mesh safety basket outside) if replacing with same, floor standing, some install tweaks maybe required? If you intend to keep HWC, don't buy a combi, defeats the purpose if keeping HWC. Boiler size, looking for rating plate (x amount BTU's) I'd replace pump, zone valves too, look at it as a complete new system install. As for manufactures, loads out there that are reliable brands. Incidentally, one local plumb merchant offered a system planning service FOC, with drawings in hand, I put out to tender. Having a system plan made life so much easier for costing and, knowing floorboards to lift ect. Ask around, there may be a merchant near you who will design you a new system? HTH?
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Post by Firefox on Feb 17, 2014 20:36:06 GMT
Good link Hippy. Mine comes in at 12kw = 41,000 BTU per hour (seems big?)
Respected boiler brands as recommended by Charlie = Veissmann, Vaillant, Worcester-Bosch
Edit: Just checked and 12kW is actually a bit small. Most seem around 20kW
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Post by kangooroo on Feb 17, 2014 21:33:08 GMT
Probably completely irrelevant but our house is 85m2 with 11 radiators (none in kitchen) and, due to low water pressure, two Stuart-Turner pumped showers upstairs fed by the hot water cylinder.
We have a Worcester Greenstar 15Ri boiler but I can't find the BTU rating. Given a choice, we would have opted to get rid of the HWC to gain much-needed space and enjoy instantaneous hot water. Instead, our original boiler died just a month after fitting our pumped showers - Sod's Law!
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Post by X on Feb 17, 2014 21:43:33 GMT
Probably completely irrelevant but our house is 85m2 with 11 radiators (none in kitchen) and, due to low water pressure, two Stuart-Turner pumped showers upstairs fed by the hot water cylinder. We have a Worcester Greenstar 15Ri boiler but I can't find the BTU rating. Given a choice, we would have opted to get rid of the HWC to gain much-needed space and enjoy instantaneous hot water. Instead, our original boiler died just a month after fitting our pumped showers - Sod's Law! It is a 15 KW boiler that is approx 51,000 btu a small boiler so not big enough for Vern but yes ok on your place but a combi wold be minimum 24 kw but better at 30 kw
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Post by n brown on Feb 18, 2014 7:41:37 GMT
as with a lot of things =size does matter, bigger is better.if you ever need to add rads,for a conservatory or loft,good to have the capacity
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Post by Oldish Hippy on Feb 18, 2014 8:44:32 GMT
as with a lot of things =size does matter, bigger is better.if you ever need to add rads,for a conservatory or loft,good to have the capacity ccombi boiler with shower need good pressure to work otherwise the losse out when you turn on a tap ie you shower and someone turn on tap in kitchen drops the pressure and the water get rather warm
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Post by n brown on Feb 18, 2014 8:47:38 GMT
another alternative is have an electric shower with a floor boiler then it won't run out of hot water
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Post by stonedaddy on Mar 12, 2014 23:42:15 GMT
Vern just changed my boiler before Xmas. My old one was a 26 year old Saunier Duval which I fitted when I installed the central heating system before any gas safe certificates where needed. It was a french early combination boiler. I was informed by most of the experts to get a Worcester or Vaillant as they are supposed to be the best. I plumped for the Vaillant as that had a five year guarantee at the time of purchase. One thing was to get the old system flushed out with special chemicals then fit a magnetic filter on the return flow. That will pick up all the past years of rubbish and iron particles that flow around the old system. That in turn will protect your new boiler from getting blocked and keep your pump which are fitted internal from silting up. Unfortunately I had to get a gas fitter to do the work this time has the house insurance would be void without the final certificates signed by a professional. .... Tom ....
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